#09 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z



Type: Driver
File Name: d_e_26586.zip
File Size: 27.5 MB
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Everyone who sees it run is gobsmacked at the speed and handling! We're going to test-fit the stern control surfaces and running gear into the lower after quarter of the hull and get comfortable with how the two types of control surface operating shafts make up d&e skipjack the yokes; make up the pushrods to the yokes; and make up the intermediate drive shaft to the propeller shaft coupler.


All this to check the components for fit and proper operation and to give you a good look at the assembly in operation a chance to appreciate my magnificence something you won't be able to do once the a stern-cone portion of the upper after hull quarter is permanently glued atop the lower after hull quarter. The d&e skipjack are rather straight-forward in that the upper portions of those operating shafts are permanently encapsulated in the cast resin rudders with projecting end of each operating shaft running directly into a rudder yoke bore and made fast with a set-screw.

The rudder operating shafts have machined flats, insuring non-slip alignment between the two rudders when made up to the yoke. The stern plane operating shafts, through necessity, d&e skipjack to be removable from the stern plane pieces themselves. This because the outboard ends of the control surfaces fit within horizontal extensions that project aft and block a straight-in insertion of the stern plane with its operating shaft installed. So, I've d&e skipjack the stern plane operating shaft removable.

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Making up a stern plane to its yoke goes like this: a stern plan is held behind its horizontal stabilizer by masking tape; the stern plane yoke, with attached pushrod, is suspended within the stern with the aid of either a long hemostat or needle-nosed pliers; The stern plane operating shaft it's flat oriented to present to the tip of the stern plane set-screw is pushed through the hole in the center of the horizontal stabilizers outboard bearing, through the bore of the stern plan, and into the bore of the yoke till the d&e skipjack end d&e skipjack the operating shaft is flush with the outboard face of the horizontal stabilizer bearing; the operating shaft fully inserted, the stern plane set-screw is tightened don't over-tighten or you'll strip the resin threadkeeping the shaft from rotating within the stern plane; finally, the inboard end of the operating shaft is secured to the yoke by tightening the yokes set-screw.

You want to orient the stern planes cord line perpendicular to the yokes bell-crank arm.

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One pushrod makes up to the rudder bell-crank, the other pushrod makes up to the stern plane bell-crank. Later, the forward end of these pushrods will receive a magnetic coupler that will engage a counter-part that makes d&e skipjack to a SD pushrod and servo. Magnets are used to couple the two linkage elements no back-lash, no tools, no sweat. More on that later.

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Two oblong holes, one in each of the bottom d&e skipjack quarters, are intended to accept the stud d&e skipjack a display stand. Use the two resin blanking plugs to block those holes, as you did with the rudder holes then grind away the raised flange within the hull quarter over those blanking plugs. Take the two resin propeller shaft foundations and, after grinding away the radial and longitudinal raised braces at the stern of the two stern hull quarters, test them for a tight fit.

Keep the lower after hull quarter propeller shaft foundations in place for the next step, the dry-fit of the running gear and control surfaces. Install the two rudders and two stern planes as seen above. Note how the intermediate drive shaft runs through the center of the rudder yoke and over the swing-arm of the stern plane yoke. You'll work out how much dog-bone half projects past the tube as you integrate the running gear with the SD. You're going to saw away portions of the stern and bow from their respective hull quarters to establish a Z- type separation line d&e skipjack upper and lower d&e skipjack sections.

This type break between the two hull halves provides for quick access only one screw at the stern holds the hull halves togetheris strong, and is less susceptible to flexing than a simpler horizontal break that runs completely around the bow and maybe even the stern With the Z-break a single screw presses the after halves of the hull together as a radial capture flange forward works to press the forward halves of the hull together. To achieve this Z-separation you'll remove portions of the bow and stern and weld them to the opposing hull section. Look d&e skipjack the pretty pictures!

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D&e skipjack the forward lower hull quarter and after upper stern quarter in hand and put the other quarter hull section out of the way so you don't grab one of them by mistake when you start marking and cutting. Now, to mark the radial lines around the hull quarters where you will saw them free.

Any number of ways to accurately mark off a radial line on a tapered body-of-revolution. But, the easiest method, presented here, is to take advantage of the internal stiffening ribs molded within the hull quarters, using them as both guide, and datum line from which to identify the distance from bow and stern to cut the bow piece and stern piece away. Study the above photo. Load your d&e skipjack with a Sharpie pen. Let's start with the forward lower hull quarter: Identify the second radial stiffening frame from the bow, that's our datum line.

Set the compass distance between point and pen tip at 3" inches. Careful to maintain the line between point and pen tip parallel with the hull quarters longitudinal axis as you move the compass laterally, mark a radial line into the d&e skipjack of the hull quarter, that inked in line denoting the bow cut line.

Do the same for the after upper hull quarter. Does d&e skipjack have any experience with this kit" you would think it.


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